Hi,

I have recently gotten my hands on a Rover 216 (SE) from 1985.
It hasn't run in a very long time (more than 10 years) and I am trying to get it running again.
I've drained the fuel and put some fresh fuel in, checked the plugs and fluid levels and tried to start it. It ran, but fuel was leaking from the carburator.

On the carburator is a stamped plate which reads FZX1460. I think it is a HIF44E carburator, but perhaps you could confirm this for me?

I will order a seal kit to re-seal the carburator, and then get going on the brakes

It is good to see another SD3 (213/216) owner joining us.

I am sure the carburettor will be a HIF44E, as it has the electronic choke control and overrun fuel cutoff.

Best source of parts would be Burlen Fuel Systems: if you give them the FZX number, they should be able to supply everything you need.

https://sucarb.co.uk/

Thank you for the link, I have rebuilt the carb and the leak is gone!
However, I think I have some trouble with the setup of the carb or the choke and I hope you might be able to help me with this:
If I setup the idle screw to where it idles nicely (not too high) when warm, it will not start when cold unless I give it some throttle. If you then let go of the throttle, it will die immediately.
I have also tried opening the idle screw a bit more, but then the revs stay very high all the time, and when it warms up they even seem to increase a bit.
Any clues would be great!

The idle speed and mixture are controlled by the fuel system ECU, which is probably located somewhere in the dashboard area (on a Maestro or Montego, which uses the same engine and fuel system, the ECU is mounted on a panel in the top of the glovebox). It is not directly controlled by the ignition ECU in the engine bay, although that does send information to the fuel ECU such as engine speed and load.

One of the important inputs to the fuel ECU is the engine temperature sensor, so this should be checked because the system may be trying to set the idle and mixture based on false values. Ideally, you need the 'Austin Rover Fast Check' diagnostic device to plug in to the car and check that all sensors are operating correctly and that the output to the carburettor is all good.

If I can find any more information for you, I will post it here.

If there’s an engine coolant temperature sensor, I’d be starting by checking that and the resistance of it. You ideally need the expected values, but as a rule resistance should fall the hotter the coolant.

If the temperature sensor is reporting incorrect values, the ECU won’t richen the fuel mixture enough for cold start (or flipping it round, leave the car running massively overfuelling!).

Thanks for the replies.

I noticed that the fan kicks in when hot, but this is a separate fan temperature switch right?
And the temperature on the dash is also rising does that use the temperature sensor?

zazakra wrote: ↑Sun Oct 26, 2025 2:08 pm Thanks for the replies.

I noticed that the fan kicks in when hot, but this is a separate fan temperature switch right?
And the temperature on the dash is also rising does that use the temperature sensor?

I'm not sure about the management system for the SD3, but the K-Series uses separate sensors for the rad fan, temp gauge and ECU. I would presume your car would be similar, and would advise to ascertain which sensor pertains to what (rad fan switch will probably be in the radiator body, for a start, and the temperature gauge will cease to function when the corresponding sensor is unplugged) and test as above with multimeter.