[Julesmat50]

The hatchback and Coupe wipers move through approx 120 degrees, so are unlikely to be suitable.

The later 'R3' 200 and 25 cars have a wiper that moves through 180 degrees, so there is a possibility that the motor from one of those may be suitable.

Appologies for re-instating an old thread, but I was just wondering. Has anyone tried doing this swap? I was thinking about getting an 200/25/ZS rear wiper motor in case my one is faulty and not just a wiring issue, but looking at ones for sale on Ebay, there appear to be some noticable differences. For example the plug is different (rectangular, not oval), there are 4 wires into the motor, not three, the tailgate mounting plate bolts on the "front" of the motor i.e. the side with the spindle, not the "rear" and possibly the most difficult to overcome it looks (from the photos compared to my own motor) like the tourer has the gearbox on the left side of the spindle (with the spindle uppermost) and the 200/25/ZS is mounted on the right side i.e. they are mirrored.
It looks like it probably won't work as a replacement. Any thoughts?

Regards,
Jules

[MatthewL]

So sorry Jules. I missed that you’d posted. I’m not convinced these things are interchangeable or even fixable. It’s an issue.

I’m busy fixing my MOT fail points with some sill repairs. Bushes all need replacing also.

One quick question - can anyone please tell me where I can get a driver side rear arch plastic liner? My car has a lower rear small section of it but not the rest of it. There’s a full cover on the passenger side.

[Julesmat50]

So sorry Jules. I missed that you’d posted. I’m not convinced these things are interchangeable or even fixable. It’s an issue.

Thanks for the response and no worries about the delay .
I did end up buying a cheap (£8) 200/25/ZR rear wiper motor, just to check and I can confirm it won't fit - it's not even close. It was the motor at fault, but I got lucky and was able to buy a second hand one from a breakers, although for a lot more than £8! If I ever find someone who can repair them, at least I won't have to take the old one off the car now.

[MatthewL]

My 420 tourer has had a smelly exhaust for as long as I’ve had it even when warm. I changed all the senders bar the lambda sensor. Having plugged in the P-Scan the readings never settled when the engine was warm so I assumed it was duff after 28 years even though the heater circuit was in tact (the 2 white wires made a circuit).

I tried soaking it in penetrating oil every day over 6 days and can tell you this… for all the claims both Bulldog BDX and PlusGas were worse than useless. Cans of nothing but hope.

I tried one of those sockets with a side missing so it goes over the top and the wire passes through the hole. Not nearly man enough - it just bent open under pressure. Then I bought an air hammer for my compressor with an attachment for shocking lambda sensors free. Defeated. There is very little room to work.

So I took out the radiator (more of which later), used an angle grinder to chop the lambda down to the nut, then managed to squeeze in my impact driver with a short 22mm impact socket. After 30 seconds of hammer I saw a tiny movement. 2 more minutes of impact driving back and forth and it finally came out. The thread was bone dry… not a drop of penetrating oil got through.

If anyone cares I’ll put in instructions to swap out a radiator on the 2.0 R8 as my Haynes for the 214/414 doesn’t quite apply.

[MatthewL]

In case anyone is needing to replace their radiator or to take it out to get to the lambda, here are the steps for refitting so carry this out in reverse order to get the thing out!

1. This is a new Nissens 642161 model radiator which I needlessly painted with Frost heat transferring radiator paint on the off chance any bit of it was mild steel and not galvanised. I fitted a new radiator fan switch which goes in half way up the offside - it pushes in and a little sliding plastic clip stops it coming out.



2. Near side mount shown - a rubber bung goes in it and the radiator sits with its bottom pegs in these holes in the rubber bungs


3. Driver side one


4. This L shaped pipe was slightly in the way of the radiator coming in and out - the clearance was very tight. I slightly bent it to assist and trapped a rag between it and the radiator to stop it damaging the radiator.



5. Radiator seated at base on driver side with bung in place


6. Looking down on near side as radiator is located


7. Radiator seated in bung


8. Cleaned up by and painted top mounts. They sit on the pegs on the top of the radiator then when in location a screw into the slam panel secured the radiator in place.


9. Located prior to screwing to slam panel


10. The connector to the fan switch on driver side of radiator looking downward


11. Connect the 3 earth wires and the connector to the fan


12. The circular mount into which the air filter box sits. Notes also you can easily unhook the clutch cable by hand here and lubricate it.



13. Fit air box into mount, reattach pipe to rear with jubilee clip. 2 bolts secure it to the side where the battery sits


14. Refit Battery which has a single bolt into a short metal clamp holding it at the front


15. Reconnect the king lead from the coil


16. Refit the heat shield - it’s hard to access especially for the bottom of the 3 machine screws - I used an 8mm ratchet spanner.


17. Reconnect live then earth


As I say - with this being a re-fit these need to be done in reverse order to get space to work on your stick lambda or to remove your radiator.

[MatthewL]

Looking to improve my silver trim strips. Bought sone 151 Chrome paint which was cheap and had good reviews. As I wasn’t sure about the paint and it’s longevity I decided I’d:
1. Lightly sand surface with 400grit paper
2. Use an etch primer to grip to the surface
3. 3 coats 30 mins apart of chrome paint, then leave 4 hours
4. Cover in spray lacquer and leave overnight.

The result is a slightly matte finish but what a great transformation! I added thin 3M double sided waterproof tape to the existing (still tacky) foam adhesive. We’ll see if it stays on!

[Paul_1978_yorks]

Great job with the silver trim - might have to look at that for mine on the rear bumpers.

[MatthewL]

Thanks Paul. Weighing up risks of painting bumper ones - do I remove and risk snapping tabs or paint in situ? Going to have a good think!

[ROVER Cabby]

Silver trim looks mint!

[MatthewL]

Thanks! Bit worried a section may be peeling though! I’ll let you know if it does fail